Chapter 81: Additional Expansion (2)
TL: Hanguk
On a mid-December morning when winter rain was falling,
The road in front of the Napa Valley Marriott Hotel was lined with black sedans. Entry passes bearing winery logos glittered in each window, and the people stepping out of the cars pulled their thick coats tight as they headed for the convention hall.
"You're not too nervous, are you?"
Dad smiled as he turned up the collar of his heavy gray coat.
"Your dad used to run a business. Stuff like this doesn't faze me."
"Heh, alright."
Above the entrance, a banner displayed "Napa Valley Vintners Annual Meeting 2005" in gold lettering.
The lobby was already crowded. Wine bottles lined every booth where each winery's banner was set up, and people wearing name tags exchanged handshakes and small talk.
"Redwood Winery, Mr. Woody Choi and Mr. Brian Choi, correct?"
The receptionist handed us our badges with a smile.
"This year's Double Gold winners. Welcome."
Once we stepped inside the hall, familiar names began to register one by one. Robert Mondavi, Joseph Phelps, Dan Duckhorn of Duckhorn, Chuck Wagner of Caymus... the heavyweights who represented Napa were all gathered there. The sight of them mingling, laughing, shaking hands, and talking wine looked like the city's history brought together in one place.
"Wow... those people are all huge names, aren't they?"
"Yeah. People we've only ever known by name until now."
Even before my regression, I had respected those people. The wines they had made were genuinely worthy of recognition. Just then, Robert Mondavi, leaning on his cane, walked over toward us.
When Dad bowed his head first in greeting, Mondavi smiled.
"Pleased to meet you. And we meet again, don't we? After the alumni winery showcase, this is the second time, isn't it?"
"Yes, that's right."
"I'm very grateful for the lessons you gave my granddaughter."
"It was nothing, really."
"It was something. Thanks to you, that girl learned she has talent enough to surprise the world, beyond just the family name. She's studying wine very humbly now, and that's something I can't thank you for enough. On top of that... Echelon and Sylphide. Truly remarkable. The finished Echelon especially..."
He cut himself off mid-sentence and turned his head toward Dad beside me.
"Was deeply impressive."
"Thank you. I've long held you in great respect, Mr. Mondavi."
To be honest, Dad had said he had no interest in wine before coming to America. It hadn't been long since he'd even learned of Mondavi's reputation, so saying he'd respected him was basically a fib, yet his eyes were sparkling like a fan finally meeting the star he'd always wanted to meet.
"Heh, I'm just an old man who doesn't know when he'll go. You raised your son well. If I had more time and were in better health, I'd love to talk wine with you at length, but, well, that's a shame. Today the leading figures of Napa are gathered in one place, so it might do you good to start getting to know them now. That said... don't get too close to them, either."
He gave an inscrutable smile and walked off. In the direction he was heading, Joseph Phelps and Chuck Wagner of Caymus were chatting and casting glances our way.
"Looks like we're getting some attention. First time anything like this has happened to me, your old man, so I'm a little flustered."
"It's a first for me too. Let's just enjoy it."
Dad nodded and squared his shoulders confidently.
Inside the convention hall, round tables filled the room. At the center of each table sat a name plaque engraved with a winery's logo and a single bottle of that winery's signature wine.
The event began as NVV president Margaret Durie took the podium.
"Everyone, you've all completed another bountiful harvest this year. 2005 was a difficult year with drought and high temperatures, but in the end it left us with an excellent vintage of complex flavor and deep body. Napa has proven its name once again this year."
A quiet round of applause followed. Graphs and figures appeared on the slide screen. Things like yields by AVA, average Brix readings, and quality assessments by major variety.
"This year began with a record-breaking drought, but thanks to the high heat in August and the moderate diurnal temperature variation in September, the balance between sugar and acidity in the grapes settled in stably. Because spring rainfall was light, the harvest was down 9% on average from the previous year, but quality actually improved."
The next slide showed maps and graphs of each region.
"Cabernet Sauvignon from Rutherford and Oakville averaged 25.8 Brix, which is 1.2 points higher than last year. With firm tannin structure and gentle acidity, the consensus is that conditions are slightly more favorable for long-term aging. On the other hand, Pinot Noir from Stags Leap and Carneros saw yields drop by 12%, but in terms of aromatic complexity it set a record high for the past decade."
The screen showed sample photos by variety in succession. Vivid Cabernet clusters under bright sunlight, and Pinot Noir clusters in dim shade.
"Chardonnay produced a successful vintage only in areas that escaped this spring's frost damage, and yields plunged in the Mercado (low-lying region) due to salinity stress. As a result, market supply of Chardonnay is expected to decrease next year."
Over by the lobby, several marketers were rapidly taking notes. Then Margaret Durie clicked her remote and the slide changed.
"Now let's look at market trends. Domestic wine consumption in the U.S. in 2005 increased 7.4% over last year. Within that, the average consumer price per bottle of Napa Valley wine rose 18%. This means the 'premium label' has more firmly established itself in consumers' eyes."
The owners of the larger wineries nodded calmly, while a few owners of small and mid-sized wineries had a glint in their eyes. Probably because they believed that as Napa Valley's brand value rose, more and more opportunities would come to them.
Margaret continued.
"However, this year's export share is stagnant at 22%. The delays in tariff negotiations with Europe and the saturation of the Japanese market appear to be the causes. Accordingly, NVV is considering expanding promotions starting next year, centered on the Asian market, particularly Korea and China."
The hall stirred a little. I, too, paused my pen at those words. The Asian market was still one where most people, when they thought of wine, thought of France. Interest in wine had grown after the manga "Drops of God", but the focus was mostly on European wines, so I was a bit skeptical whether exporting to the Asian market would actually take up.
Next, a TTB official took the podium. He spread out a thick stack of documents and began.
"Starting next year, labeling standards will become stricter. To use the phrase 'Estate Bottled', the entire process of growing, vinifying, and bottling must take place within the same owned property. In addition, AVA designations require that at least 85% of the grapes used come from that region, and in particular, use of the 'Napa Valley' designation will require mandatory NVV registration certification."
A few people let out gasps.
"So wines made by custom crush can no longer be labeled as Napa Valley wines?"
"Correct. Custom-produced wines may only be labeled as 'California' or 'Sonoma County'. That said, we're granting a one-year grace period. From next year onward, you'll need to draw up production plans without any errors."
The TTB representative spoke firmly, and the conference room buzzed.
"Good thing we expanded the winery this time."
Dad whispered, and I nodded.
"Even with the rules changing like this, it doesn't really affect us much. But if this trend keeps going, things could get even tighter, so the expansion is going to help."
Still, with this turn of events, Sylphide could be made at Redwood without anyone raising objections, but Cerasia, given the limits of our tank capacity, would have to be done as custom crush. Cerasia's price point isn't high relative to volume, so doing it as custom crush would cut into profits, but there was no helping it.
Once the TTB representative on market regulations stepped down, the NVV secretary general took the podium again.
"Lastly, I'd like to introduce one notable winery among this year's new NVV members. Redwood Winery, which received two Double Gold medals at this year's San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition."
At that moment, the spotlight turned toward Dad and me.
"The cherry wine Cerasia 2005, and the Double Gold-winning Echelon and Sylphide. Redwood is being hailed as a representative example proving Napa's diversity and potential."
Applause echoed through the banquet hall, and someone even called out "Bravo". Dad rose from his seat and gave a brief greeting.
"This year has brought our Redwood many things. We were lucky, and we learned a great deal. We hope next year will be a year of sharing what we've learned."
Once the introduction of Redwood Winery wrapped up, the event entered its intermission.
Each table was set with wine and finger food, and people checked name tags and gathered in groups of threes and fives. The faces of those who had finished their year's harvest carried both fatigue and satisfaction.
I poured a little wine into my glass and looked over at the display stand in the corner of the hall. Each winery had set up its signature wine.
'Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve',
'Joseph Phelps Insignia',
'Duckhorn Merlot',
And among them, in a small space, Echelon and Sylphide stood out particularly to my eye. And the reason Redwood's two wines stood out so much wasn't only because they were ours.
The other winery owners were laughing and chatting all around the room, but they kept stealing glances at the two wines that had simultaneously won Double Gold and at our side. An Asian winemaker who had appeared in Napa Valley out of nowhere like a comet. To some it was fresh stimulation, but to others, surely an uncomfortable presence.
Just then, one man approached where Dad and I were standing.
"Hello. You're Woody Choi of Redwood, correct?"
At the unfamiliar voice I turned my head and saw a middle-aged man holding a glass. Hair flecked with silver, deep lines etched into his face, his eyes carrying a strange kind of weariness.
"Yes, that's right."
"David Hoffman of Ironwood Cellars."
"Ah, yes. I know of you. I actually came by once before since the farm is nearby."
Dad extended his hand and shook with him.
"I listened to today's presentation closely. Quite impressive. From my own perspective, also rather enviable."
He glanced at the Echelon and Sylphide on the display stand and continued.
"Truth is, I've been wrestling with a lot lately. I've been in Napa Valley for fifteen years, tried just about everything, and I haven't put out a single clear result. And then someone comes along and pulls Double Gold medals in just one year..."
His expression was bitter and somehow tinged with anger, and Dad and I subtly raised our guard. Whether he sensed it or not, he shrugged with an air of resignation.
"What can you do? Just bad luck. Still, if there's one consolation, it's that the most important thing in grape farming is the land, and the value of that hasn't been lost. If someone takes a liking to my land, I can sell at a good price and walk away. But will anyone actually have the nerve? I mean, who's going to step up to compete in Napa Valley with those massive wineries pouring in millions of dollars?"
He stared straight at Dad as he spoke, and there was something curious in it. As if he were asking, "Would you have the nerve?" while also pleading for someone to please buy his land.
Was he wandering somewhere between the inferiority that an untalented man feels toward a talented one and the practical reality of needing to break out of his situation?
"Ha, wouldn't there be someone out there?"
"Yes. Somewhere, I'm sure. I'll be looking forward to next year, too. Echelon, was it? We'll see if it lives up to its name."
Once he had walked off, Dad asked me,
"What was that about? Why'd he come over?"
"Sounds like he's pretty conflicted inside. Strapped for money, jealous of us. But since we've sold a lot of wine, he figures we've got cash, and he wants us to buy his land..."
"Letting that show so plainly... He's not someone who's good at negotiating."
"No kidding. Doesn't seem like the type cut out for sales or business."
"But is his land really that bad?"
I shook my head.
"Come on... There's no land like that in Napa Valley. Ironwood Cellars is just a little north of our farm, isn't it? Drainage is good, the soil's high in iron, so the grape color comes out deep. The fact that he couldn't make a wine with real value out of those grapes isn't the grapes' fault. With the right winemaker, those grapes would have a voice worth hearing..."
Dad read the greed in my eyes and asked,
"What? You gonna buy it?"
"I'm thinking about it. It's a single 30-acre farm, isn't it? It's close to Redwood, too. Combined with the Silveroak property, it'd come to a 60-acre farm in total."
"...... I'll go with whatever you decide."
Maybe because his son had been selling out everything he made, Dad seemed to think my opinion mattered most.
"Hmm... I wonder how much he'd sell it for..."
I started seriously thinking it through.
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