Chapter 55: Wine & Grape Integrated Expo (2)
TL: Hanguk
After my heart-stirring meeting with Santa Rosa Stainless Steel, who had enthusiastically backed my dream, I continued wandering through the convention center. My objective was now clear.
Finding a company that could help me build the optimal setup to make the wine I truly wanted.
"Can you install multipoint sensors on the tank? I'd like them placed at the top, middle, and bottom to monitor temperature stratification during fermentation."
The middle-aged employee at the first consultation booth laughed as if the question were absurd.
"A single sensor is more than enough. Even if there's a temperature difference between the top and bottom, the inside of the tank circulates on its own. There's no need to drive up costs for nothing."
"Ah... is that so? So you're saying additional modifications aren't possible?"
"I'm sorry, but we've never done that level of work on a fermentation tank before. If you really want it, it's possible, but... the cost would be..."
The estimate he handed me was so staggering that I instinctively backed away. Multipoint sensors would eventually become standard in winemaking, but at this point, the wine industry still lacked a proper understanding of temperature stratification.
The second booth was even worse.
"Dissolved oxygen sensors? CO₂ sensors too? Ha, that's the kind of equipment you'd find in a university lab, not something a winery needs."
"An automatic control system? You mean connecting a PLC to the cooling unit so it kicks in automatically when the temperature exceeds 27 degrees? I don't know, you could just stick a thermometer on the side of the tank and have someone check it regularly."
In the end, their answer was always the same: "Our product works just fine as it is."
They might have been right. But with the knowledge I carried from before the regression, I knew this system was essential. The data accumulating during fermentation, the automatically regulated cooling, the curve graphs building up year after year. I knew that only by collecting all that data could I make wine that improved with every vintage.
After making a full loop, my steps grew heavy.
"I guess the times just aren't ready yet..."
Right around then, I spotted a small booth in a corner of the exhibition hall. There were no crowds around it, just a few flyers sitting on a folding table. A Black man sat in a single chair, quietly flipping through a notebook. Something about the scene caught my eye.
The booth's sign read in large letters:
[Delta Process Solutions]
Beneath it, in smaller print, was written: "Food & Beverage / Winery Industry Automation & Data Logging Solutions."
I walked over naturally and asked.
"Do you handle tank customization by any chance?"
The man closed his notebook and looked up. He wore a clean shirt, his curly hair trimmed short. His gaze was calm but tinged with curiosity.
"What kind of customization are you talking about?"
I launched into my explanation as if I'd been waiting for this moment.
"I've ordered tanks for my winery, and I want to add my own systems to them."
"What kind of...?"
"First, multipoint temperature sensors. Normally you'd only install one, right? I want them at the top, middle, and bottom of the tank. Is that possible?"
He didn't find my idea strange at all and nodded.
"...That's a solid idea. Usually people just get by with one, but in reality, the temperature difference between the top and bottom can be quite significant."
"Exactly. Second, dissolved oxygen sensors and CO₂ sensors. Right now they're lab equipment used in university settings, but could you customize them for a winery?"
The more he listened, the more interested he seemed. A faint smile was now playing at the corners of his mouth.
"Oh, interesting. I've worked with similar devices in large food and beverage factories. Applying them to a winery would be a fascinating challenge."
"Great. Third, an automatic control system. Think of it as a small-scale version of SCADA. I'd attach a PLC so that cooling activates automatically when the temperature exceeds 27 degrees and maintains it within a set range. Alerts would be sent via text message... Would that be possible?"
I watched his reaction, thinking that this level of technology should be achievable in 2005, and he readily nodded.
"Absolutely. It's doable. The control logic can be programmed with a PLC, and for the alerts, we just need to add a communication module. We can set it up to send warnings to your cell phone."
"Oh, that's a relief. And lastly, data logging and analysis... I'm planning to connect it to a laptop and save data at per-minute intervals."
"You need that too?"
"Haha. Yes..."
With this equipment, I could export the data into Excel graphs and compare fermentation curves year after year.
He let out an incredulous smile.
"Wow... this isn't just a tank, it's a laboratory."
"It could be. But what I want isn't simply to make wine. It's to make wine that gets better every year."
He stood up and extended his hand.
"Marcus Brown. CEO of Delta Process Solutions. I used to design automation systems for large beverage factories. But ever since I went independent, I've been waiting for a challenge like this. Everything you've described, I can do it."
"Really?"
"Yes. Modifying the internal piping of a fermentation tank would require the manufacturer's permission, but attaching sensors, logging equipment, and control systems is my specialty. If needed, I'll even fabricate custom boards to make it all connect."
We immediately began calculating the necessary equipment and rough costs on a notepad sitting on the table. A PLC unit, sensor sets, a data logger, communication modules... the total came to just over $50,000. It was far more reasonable than I'd expected.
"Sounds good. Let's start installation as soon as the tanks arrive."
When I extended my hand, he grasped it firmly with both of his.
***
Two days had passed since the trip to the Sacramento convention center. After purchasing the tanks to be outfitted with cutting-edge equipment and over eighty French oak barrels, I was so satisfied I could hardly eat.
The day before, I had spoken with technicians about building a fermentation room for the newly ordered tanks, and the winery expansion was set to begin in earnest starting tomorrow.
How thrilling was all of this?
"Whew..."
I calmed my racing heart and opened the door to the aging room. Cold air and the scent of wood rushed in simultaneously.
"Doesn't it already feel wonderful in here?"
"That's why I practically live in the aging room when I've got nothing else to do."
Dad answered my question with a smile. Just the sight of the oak barrels lined up in rows was a pleasure to behold.
"But do you really think you can get it to market within a year?"
"Yes. Aging it longer would obviously be better, but... our farm's finances aren't exactly generous. We need to start clearing the land we bought from Silveroak Hills soon, and that costs money too..."
"That's true."
"Chloe's farm, the one we signed a strategic partnership with, won't be much help to our revenue until they finish switching over all their varieties. Jacob's farm should show results faster than Chloe's, but rice farming doesn't generate huge revenue to begin with, so it won't help much either."
Since I'd already signed a strategic partnership with Jacob, I wanted to help grow his farm, but the problem was that rice farming wasn't easy, and the revenue was lower than cherries. I'd been mulling over the idea of using the rice from Jacob's farm to make makgeolli or soju, but I hadn't brought it up yet.
"So I understand you want to get it out within a year no matter what, but I'm worried the winery's reputation might take a hit."
"It won't. I'm actually pretty confident about this."
"Really?"
"Yes. So just follow my lead, okay?"
"Sure, sure. Dad will follow his son right along."
I opened the vent on the first barrel and took a sniff.
"Good. There's nothing wrong with the smell. Watch closely."
I then connected a sterilized hose to the racking pump and gently drew out only the wine, leaving the sediment (dead yeast and deposits) at the bottom of the barrel undisturbed, and transferred it into a clean barrel beside it. Racking was simple, but to prevent cloudiness, off-flavors, and oxidation, these basics had to be done precisely.
As soon as the transfer was complete, I measured the free SO₂ (free sulfur dioxide).
"At pH 3.62... around 30 mg/L. Good. The reason we do racking like this is that if you leave dead yeast, skins, seed fragments, and protein residue sitting together for too long, you get off-putting smells like rotten eggs seeping in. The key here is that fine sediment is fine, but coarse sediment is not."
I calculated the dosage and slowly mixed in the meta (potassium metabisulfite) solution I'd prepared in advance.
"You mix it in like this and re-measure until the numbers settle into the safe range."
"What's the safe range?"
"It needs to fall between 25 and 35 mg/L. That's considered safe from oxidation and microbial contamination."
"Got it."
After working for quite a while, we tasted the second barrel.
"How is it?"
"The aroma seems nice, but..."
I took a sip as well. Dad's expression was ambiguous, and sure enough, I could feel the tannins hitting angular and rough on the palate.
"That's because the tannins are harsh. In cases like this, we need to introduce a little oxygen."
"How much?"
"Just a tiny bit."
I connected a sterilized micro-bubble stone (porous stainless steel) to the racking line and opened the sterile air line at a low flow rate.
"See? Through the capillary, it's flowing at about 0.5 to 1.0 mL per minute. Since our setup isn't large, we send it at a very low flow rate."
"Does everyone do it this way?"
A smile crept across my lips.
"No. But this is how it should be done. Trust your son. Just like I said, only a tiny amount, tasting as we go, slowly... and for a short duration."
"Alright, got it."
Introducing oxygen at this stage was the kind of thing that would easily draw criticism. It could mask the aromas, and if overdone, oxidation would ruin the wine.
"Next, we'll fine-tune the oak character. Each barrel has a different profile, you know? Some lots have overpowering oak, while others are flat because the fruit aromas are too faint."
"Oh."
"The principle is simple. Fruit aroma takes center stage, oak plays a supporting role."
"So the fruit aroma is the most important thing?"
"Exactly. Barrels with strong oak need to be partially blended with lighter barrels to calm them down. Conversely, barrels where the oak is weak and only the fruit stands out get a small addition of oak cubes or staves to subtly adjust the tone. Cubes deliver flavor quickly, but if you use too much, you get a plastic-like smell, so you use small amounts for short periods and taste frequently..."
That was when it happened.
"Brian! There are visitors outside!"
It was Armando's voice. Dad and I looked at each other, then headed outside. Standing outside the winery were a white man who appeared to be in his fifties and a white woman who looked to be in her thirties.
"Where are you from?"
When Dad asked, the man smiled and extended his hand.
"I'm Robert Hayden, president of Hayden Wine Dealers. We distribute wine throughout California. This is my partner, Alice Morgan. She's the purchasing director at San Francisco Wine Group."
The woman called Alice gave a brief nod and offered a handshake.
"Nice to meet you."
Their eyes held the look not of casual visitors, but of buyers with a purpose.
"And what brings you here?"
"We heard you're doing a custom crush with Pinot Noir."
When Dad furrowed his brow slightly, as if wondering how they could know that, Robert spoke as though it were nothing unusual.
"That kind of information isn't exactly a big secret. We also know you held a tasting event here."
Realizing how these people had found their way to us, Dad and I exchanged glances.
"We'd love to get our hands on the Pinot Noir you're custom-crushing, but of course you wouldn't give that up, would you?"
"Of course not."
"A shame. Then how about this? The current mid-tier price for Pinot Noir is around $15 to $30 per bottle. We'll pre-purchase your entire stock at $25 a bottle."
Dad was stunned by the offer. And so was I. Even estimating the output at 75,000 bottles, they were talking about throwing down over $1.8 million in one go.
On top of that, the fact that they'd set a price without even tasting the wine meant they'd already gained some kind of assurance from someone who had attended the tasting. Whoever that person was, they must have been someone highly trusted.
Dad looked at me for a moment. When I gave a subtle shake of my head, he immediately waved them off.
"I'm sorry. We're not selling."
"Hold on. You don't actually think you can sell it for more than this, do you?"
I was the one who answered.
"You're right that mid-tier prices run between $15 and $30, but our wine is from Sonoma County. Russian River Valley, no less. You'd have to offer at least $45 per bottle even at wholesale."
"The retail price is $40."
When his expression hardened, I shrugged.
"I know. But who's to say? The price could go even higher."
"That's..."
"And more to the point... we already have a contract with a distribution company. So even if you offered us a better price, we couldn't sign with you."
At that, the two of them wore resigned expressions and headed back down from the winery.
"You have a contract? Are you talking about John Anderson?"
"I was just making an excuse. They were trying to lowball us. Don't worry about it."
"Alright."
I watched the two figures receding into the distance, my heart pounding. I could feel it. The price of Pinot Noir was surging.
*****
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